Levada dos Tornos

This levada winds its way from Monte all the way to Gaula, and we’ve already explored it in stages on several occasions. What makes it so special is that every section has its own character. From Monte, for example, you walk through dense forests, whilst occasionally being treated to views of the harbour and the centre of Funchal. That combination of tranquillity and city life is truly unique – you hear only the birds and the babbling water, whilst in the distance you can see the hustle and bustle.

 
And yet… it’s rarely busy here. In fact, it’s surprisingly quiet. Perhaps people don’t find the route exciting enough – all the better, because we think it’s brilliant and recommend it to everyone. Most of the levada runs in the shade of trees, making it perfect for a walk on windy days.

From our cottages, it’s just a ten-minute walk uphill to the levada. There you have a choice: left towards Monte, or right towards Camacha. This time we started our walk in the centre of Camacha. A lovely starting point, by the way – first a nice cup of coffee in the village square, perhaps a quick visit to the loo, and then you’re ready to go.

From the centre, walk past the school (on your left) and down a small road. You’ll pass a sign that says LEVADA :) Walk straight across the bridge. Follow this dead-end road for about fifteen minutes, and at the end you’ll find the steps leading up to the levada. From there, you have another choice: turn left towards Gaula or right towards Monte. This time, we chose to go left – and to be honest, we thought this stretch was perhaps the most beautiful so far.

Before long, you’ll be walking beneath a natural canopy of greenery, with the sound of a waterfall murmuring in the background. Just before you reach it, you’ll need to walk under a small waterfall. Don’t worry: it’s easy enough and you’ll only get a little wet. With a rain jacket on, you’ll be dry again in no time – and after that, you can safely put it away. Along the way, you’ll pass through small tunnels (so bring a torch), enjoy sweeping views over the green valley below, and come across the occasional cottage with a vegetable garden – small settlements that can hardly be described as villages, but which offer a wonderful glimpse into the rural life of the Madeirans.

Don’t forget to bring some water and a snack, as there are no bars to be found for the first two hours of the route. Find a nice spot, in the sun or in the shade, and take your time for a break.

You can walk the entire length of this levada – if you like. But don’t worry: you certainly don’t have to. As with many other routes, you can make this as long as you like. Just bear in mind that you’ll have to take the same route back. And that’s actually no hardship at all, because on the way back everything looks just a little different. The light falls differently, you notice details you missed before – as if you’re getting two walks in one. So don’t feel obliged to walk the full loop. Sometimes turning back is actually an enrichment.

Here is the link to the starting point of the walk:

Komoot > https://www.komoot.com/nl-nl/smarttour/1423312960?ref=wdd

Google > https://maps.app.goo.gl/mUefiunXef7wMCs37

We recommend using Komoot, as shown in the start link above, or WalkMe. Komoot also lists lots of alternative walks on the island that have been recorded by fellow walkers. Komoot is also great for finding routes on other holidays and displays plenty of photos, so you can get an idea of what to expect.

Enjoy your walk!

Anne & Dave